In order to ensure a security even at butt-joints between two panels, a 4" wide batten strip of the same level material should be placed over these joints. These strips can be ordered from our company or can be cut on site from extra panels.

Battens are not required where a 90 degree corner occurs; one panel should simply overlap the other.

It is recommended to align panels to meet in between studs, rather than where they overlap. This avoids batten strips from needing to be placed in the same place as studs, thus minimizing wall thickness required.

In the case of electrical cut-outs, an additional 12” high piece of the same level of ballistic material may be installed from stud-to-stud, as close as possible to the hole

The most convenient option is to install panels within a wall; however, panels can also be easily attached the exterior of a wall that has already been built.

Panels may be attached using self-tapping drywall screws. When attaching a panel to a stud wall on which drywall will be the exterior surface, simply use enough screws to hold the panel to the studs, then come back with a complete screw pattern to the studs when hanging the drywall on top.

If connecting outside drywall service, simple drill through drywall to connect to wall studs.

Panels can also be attached with the use of adhesives. One product available is PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. For stronger adhesion to non-porous substrates, such as aluminum, steel and stainless steel, or bonding one panel to another, a 2-part Methyl Methacrylate (MMA) adhesive may be utilized, such as Plexus MA 320.

If the panels will be on the outside of a wall or furniture, they can be painted to blend in with nearby walls and decor.

A clean surface free of grit and oily residue is required prior to gluing or painting panels. One method to achieve this finish is known as “peel ply.” At the request of the customer at the time of order, a peel ply layer can be used in the manufacturing process. This thin extra layer is removed in the field immediately prior to working with the product. This leaves a clean, very slightly textured finish ready for treatment.

Cleaning the panel can also be accomplished by wiping the surface with Acetone. Minimize the amount of time the panel is exposed to solvent, avoiding soaking.

Sanding is another means of preparation. 120-grit sand paper at medium pressure can be used to lightly “roughen-up” the surface.

Once fiberglass panels have been prepared with one of the above methods, they can be painted with either an oil or water-based paint. An automotive urethane works well as a “highend” solution. For any external application that requires panels to be exposed to the elements, a paint with a UV inhibitor should be used to protect the product from long-term UV ray exposure.

Though our standard listed panel sizes cover the vast majority of projects, our team can pre-cut panels to any two dimensional size preferred (additional fees may apply).

In the field, panels can also be cut on location with a diamond-grit blade. For example, TSD 180D, manufactured by Tenryu, is a quality 7” circular blade that can be use dfor this purpose.

For electrical boxes and other small openings, a diamond grit blade (available through most builder’s supply in the ceramic tile section) on a reciprocating saw should be sufficient.

In addition to wearing protective clothing, a fan can be placed behind the cutting area to help blow away fiberglass particles.